How to make a smooth stem stitch

By Gretchen Keller

The stem stitch is a wonderful embroidery option when you are hand stitching soft curves, like in a flower stem or gentle arc. After many tries, I finally found a way to accomplish smooth stem stiches. In this how-to example, I am adding two arcs to each pinwheel in a batik version of our Patsy’s Pinwheel Party pattern.

Step 1: Using a chalk pencil, mark small dots about 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart in the shape of an arc. If you space your marks out too far, the stitch can look a little jagged. Placing your marks closer to 1/8 inch apart will help create a smoother stitched line.

With dark fabric, use a light chalk color. If the fabric is light, then use a chalk color dark enough for you to see it easily. Because chalk marks can disappear if you are handling the fabric a lot, mark one small section at a time. Once that section is stitched, then mark the next section with the chalk pencil. If you prefer to use other erasable fabric marking pens, make sure you test them on your fabrics first.

White chalk marks in arc pattern to prepare for stem stitch

Step 2: After tying a small knot at the end of your embroidery floss or pearl cotton, bring your needle up from the back at the beginning of your marked arc. Using the marks as your guide, bring your needle down at the next mark, but don’t pull the thread all the way through yet. Gently hold the remaining thread out of the way with your opposite hand. 

Opposite hand holds thread out of the way while making stem stitch

Step 3: By holding the remaining thread out of the way, you can clearly see where your previous stich went into the fabric. Bring your needle up from the back next to that previous stitch. This puts your needle and thread in the middle of the current stitch you are making.

Needle should come up next to the prior stitch

Pull thread all the way through 

Step 4: Now you can pull your thread taut and insert your needle at the next mark to start the next stem stitch.

Pull thread through taut

Step 5: Continue this process until you reach the end of the marks. Take your needle down to the back and secure your threads. This creates a smooth curved stem stitch line that forms a gentle arc. 

Completed stem stitch in brown pearl cotton

Below is another image that shows the completed stem stitch using a light purple thread on dark purple fabric.

Completed stem stitch on dark purple fabric

Have you found other tips to make a good stem stich? Send me a comment with your favorite method!